If you wait much later in the year you may not be able to find your daffodils, as the plant will be dormant and any visible signs of it hidden under the ground. Because of this, try to take action when there’s still some of the plant visible above ground.
Bulbs are usually planted pretty deep, and over time daffodil bulbs can wriggle a bit lower into the soil, so expect to dig to about the depth of an average spade.
The very smallest offsets may not flower within a year. Discard any that are damaged, mushy or show any signs of rot.
One ideal way to store them is in a paper bag in a dark corner of a garden shed.
It’s a good idea to incorporate plenty of compost or organic matter, such as well-rotted horse manure, into the soil. If you aren’t sure how much to use, cover your soil to a depth of 2 to 4 inches (5. 1 to 10. 2 cm) with the manure and then mix it with the existing soil. If your soil is clay heavy and tends to retain water, you might may want to add some grit into the soil to improve drainage.
If you can, add a trowel full of compost to the bottom of the hole for the bulb to sit on. Put the bulb in the hole with the pointed end facing upwards. Fill the hole with soil and water well. You might like to top-dress (add a top layer) of fertilizer or mulch.
It’s best not to put containers of daffodils in a warm location as this inhibits flowering.
Follow the steps outlined in Method 1 to transplant your daffodil bulbs.
