Whatever type of wax you go with, just make sure it’s not dyed, or you risk staining the shoe. If the shoes you’re trying to waterproof are expensive or irreplaceable, you might want to use one of these products just to be on the safe side.

Waxing the shoes without cleaning them first will trap dirt happens to be clinging to them. And, since they’ll then be waterproof, cleaning them after the fact can be tricky. Make sure the shoes are completely dry before you proceed. If you’re anticipating bad weather, it may be a good idea to wash old shoes a few days before you plan on wearing them.

A colorless or off-white type of wax will be the least conspicuous and blend smoothly with the materials and colors. If you’re using a colored wax, make sure it matches the hue of the shoe as closely as possible.

Double check that you’ve coated the whole shoe. Any spots you’ve missed will be vulnerable to leaks. Beeswax works best when you apply it to boots since it can get gummy and build up on other standard shoes. As the wax builds up, it will cause visible discoloration. Don’t worry—this will disappear as soon as you apply heat. [3] X Research source

Hold the nozzle close to the surface of the shoe so that the heat is better concentrated.

It may take half a minute or so for the heating coils in the hairdryer to warm up enough to melt the wax. Do one shoe at a time. That way, you’ll have a helpful visual reference to tell you when the wax has completely set in.

Look closely for any unmelted sections that you might have overlooked before you put the hairdryer up. Wax is naturally water repellent and non-penetrating, even on the most porous materials, so it won’t harm the shoes to become part of their construction. [7] X Research source

If the water is being absorbed, you may need to apply a second and more thorough layer of wax. Be sure to wait until the shoes have dried before adding more wax. You won’t be able to go swimming in your new-and-improved shoes, but getting caught in a light rain or traipsing through a snowy meadow should no longer be a problem.

Canvas, hemp, suede, and other textured materials will make the best candidates for waterproofing.

Waterproofing sprays can be found in most shoe stores, as well as shops that specialize in outdoor clothing and equipment.

Hang up the shoe if possible This will allow you to accurately target the top half of the shoe without accidentally spraying your hand. To decrease your exposure to noxious fumes, work in a well-ventilated area. Outdoors is ideal, but if that isn’t an option, you can also turn on the overhead fan. It may take two or more coats to make materials with irregular textures like suede or nubuck fully water-resistant. [10] X Research source

Avoid paper towels. The shedding fibers will get trapped in the sticky spray, effectively becoming a part of the material. Be sure to remove as much of the spray as you can from the surrounding outsole, as well as accents like zippers, eyelets, and rubberized detailing.

Don’t try to accelerate the dry time by using an external heat source, such as a hair dryer or an open fire. This could interfere with the chemical process needed for proper bonding, damage the shoe, or even create a fire hazard.

How often you waterproof your shoes will depend largely on how much wear they receive. If you plan on doing any trekking in extreme conditions, it may be a good idea to spray them 2-3 times.

Flex your foot in all different directions to loosen up the more rigid areas.

If you live in a hotter climate, you may need to show your shoes a little more attention. Exposure to heat can continually re-melt the waterproofing, causing it to wear away in no time. Don’t forget to treat your shoes again any time you wash them, or you’ll be in for an unpleasant surprise when you step outside!

Once you’ve finished washing, rinse the shoes until the water runs clear. Otherwise, leftover traces of waterproofing and detergent can congeal into a slick residue as they dry.