Make sure that the top of the dirt is at least 6 inches (15 cm) below the sill plate, which is the bottom horizontal piece of the building. This will ensure that there is no ground contact that promotes the rot of building materials. Start by adding dirt within a foot of the foundation, taking care to ensure that it’s always 6 inches (15 cm) below the sill plate. From here, move outward in one foot increments until you create a slope of 2 inches (5. 1 cm) for every foot.
Work horizontally from your ladder and move down the gutter. If your home doesn’t have gutters, consider installing some or hiring a contractor to do so. This will ensure that water is properly diverted from your home.
Work horizontally from your ladder and move down the gutter. If your home doesn’t have gutters, consider installing some or hiring a contractor to do so. This will ensure that water is properly diverted from your home.
If you plant anything new, always try to plant them on the slope around your home to direct water away from your foundation. Destroy as many of the roots as possible to prevent regrowth.
Always wear gloves when handling muriatic acid. If you get any on your skin, wash it off with water immediately.
All concrete sealers can be used to improve concrete water resistance, although some products are better for this purpose than others. Stick with sealers that are advertised as penetrating and impregnating for the best results. After applying the first coat, wait 2 hours before adding the second. Refer to your specific sealant for drying times. Don’t use a roller thicker than 3⁄8 inch (0. 95 cm) or the application will be too heavy. Try to apply concrete sealer before you finish your basement to avoid making a mess in a finished area.
Continue rolling until you paint the entire wall. Allow the paint to dry for at least 24 hours or according to manufacturer recommendations.
If your basement is unfinished, you can keep the trench filled with rocks and nothing else. But ideally, you should cover it with concrete once you finish your basement. Call a professional basement specialist if you’re not up to conduct the installation on your own.
Rent a jackhammer from a home improvement store and use a pointed bit for the best results. Always stand with your feet shoulder-width apart, grip the handles firmly, and hold the tip at a 45-degree angle to the ground. Press down with medium pressure and let the weight of the jackhammer do most of the work. Thrust the shovel straight downward and wiggle it from side to side and forward and backward to loosen the soil. Get on your knees if it’s more comfortable.
Make sure that the top of the hole for the basin is flush with the concrete floor.
Don’t use rocks smaller than washed river rock—they’re prone to getting clogged with sediments and minerals. Purchase a pipe that contains rows of 1⁄2 inch (1. 3 cm) perforation holes on just one side of the pipe. Attach PVC elbows at the corners afterward.
As you cut through the basin, keep your blade speed steady, never cut too fast, and remember that more pressure means faster blade cuts. If the flat “knockout” areas that pre-mark pipe holes don’t work for your space, don’t use them. Never create holes in the bottom of the basin—water can rise from the bottom.
Fill the space surrounding the piping with river rock up to the concrete.
Purchase bagged concrete mix that is designed for sidewalks and slabs. Use the hand float to fill any gaps under existing walls.
Make sure you have enough PVC piping to run from the sump pump to your rim joists and outside of your home. Be sure the slope outside your home is at least 2 inches (5. 1 cm) for every foot that you move away from the foundation. Always start by adding dirt within a foot of the foundation and make sure the dirt is always 6 inches (15 cm) below the sill plate. Move outward from your home in one foot increments until the slope is 2 inches (5. 1 cm) per foot.
Don’t press too hard and maintain even pressure for the best results. Check that your PVC piping fits through the hole. If it’s too small, drill it a bit larger until it’s an adequate size.
Use metal or wood drill bits, as both work for PVC. Purchase electric drills from home hardware stores.
Don’t glue the piping into the valve just yet.
After connecting the second section of PVC, take one more look at the check valve position and make sure it doesn’t interfere with the pump switch.
Apply caulk to seal the PVC piping after everything is in place. Place the nozzle onto the sealing rim and apply steady, gentle pressure to the trigger. Remember that less is more—you can always do a second run.
