STROLL the plazas around the monumental but crumbling cathedral, and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, who is clutching an AK-47.

SHOP Mama Delfina for local crafts, like hand-embroidered T shirts and jute handbags. Just one block to the north is Simplemente Madera, specializing in furnishings made from local sustainable hardwoods.

DRINK Toña beer or Flor de caña rum at Zona Hippo’s, a cluster of bars and restaurants with outdoor terraces that serve finger-licking seafood and tropical cocktails.

DANCE with the bright young things at Latina’s, the city’s hottest club, where the bands are live and the floor is packed.