Choose a shampoo that’s either sulfate free or doesn’t contain ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate or sodium lauryl sulfate. These are essentially powerful detergents that strip your hair and scalp of the natural oils your hair needs. [2] X Research source Try to stay away from all products that contain alcohol, which sucks up hair’s moisture and gives curls that crunchy look and feel. [3] X Research source
Use a protein conditioner containing wheat, keratin, silk, milk, collagen or soy [5] X Research source or a moisturizing conditioner containing jojoba oil, glycerin (or vegetable glycerin), aloe vera, shea butter or Vitamin E. You can alternate between the two daily, every few days or weekly. You may even use one more often than the other depending upon your hair’s texture and how often you use heat to style it. Use a protein conditioner more often if your hair feels dry and frizzy, stretches a great deal but still breaks, feels limp when wet or if it doesn’t hold its curl or style very well. Use a moisturizing conditioner more often if your hair breaks or snaps very easily, feels brittle or straw-like, or doesn’t stretch much or at all.
Wash hair with a cleansing conditioner every 3-7 days depending upon your hair type. Wash less often the curlier and more coarse it is. [7] X Research source Use more than you normally would, massaging it in from root to end, and let it absorb for 3-5 minutes before rinsing. [8] X Research source Wash your hair with a sulfate-free, clarifying shampoo every 2-4 weeks because cleaning conditioners do cause build-up. [9] X Research source Co-washing is not recommended for those with fine hair because it will weigh thin hair down and make it too oily. [10] X Research source If you don’t know your curl type, go to sites like this to find out: [1].
T-shirts are a great alternative for curly hair because they’re smooth and don’t roughen up the hair’s cuticles. [12] X Research source
Divide your hair into 4-8 sections and pin each up with bobby pins, flat pin curl clips or crocodile clips. Release one section at a time and use either your fingers or a wide-toothed comb to gently rake through your hair, starting at the ends and working up toward your roots. If you encounter a particularly troublesome knot, put some conditioner on your fingers to work it out. Once you have detangled a section of hair, give it a twist and pin it back up before moving on to another. When each is done, take all pins and clips out of your hair. If your hair is very thick, very curly or you have masses of curls, use a comb with long teeth that’s able to penetrate your hair. [16] X Research source
Serums, oils, lotions and creams are generally used to smooth. Gels and thicker creams are used most often to help control/hold or to define/shape. Mousses and foams add volume and also help define/shape. Sprays can do many of these things, in addition to add texture. Reading reviews online is a great way to help select products.
When scrunching, either stand straight or flip your head first to one side, to the other and then forward. Either way, place your hand under the end of your hair, one section at a time, and scrunch upward toward the root a few times. Then move to another section. When twisting, use your fingers to hook onto 1-3" sections of hair and twist it around your finger, moving from the bottom up, and hold for 15-30 seconds. They should be pretty well defined. If not, add a bit more product to your hair. [20] X Research source [21] X Research source As your hair dries, don’t touch it! Running your hands through your hair only breaks up the curls and creates flyaways and frizzy pieces of hair. [22] X Research source
Part your hair to the side you normally wouldn’t and then flip it back just before it’s dry. Create a deeper side part on the side you normally part your hair and then flip it down just before your hair is dry. Make a zigzag part, and use your fingers to part along your natural part just before your hair dries. Or you can make a zigzag part after your hair dries. Take flat pin curl clips, which won’t leave lines or marks in your hair, and clip them at the roots on the top of your head and along your part line. Remove them when your hair is dry. [23] X Research source Use claw clips to secure rows of hair. Grab two, roughly 1-2” sections of hair near your forehead (one on each side of your part), crisscross them and secure it with a small claw clip. Make 2-4 more rows behind, or going away from your forehead.
Spritz or spray a medium-hold flexible or medium-hold humidity-resistant hairspray all over your hair. Hold the can about 12” from your head. Keep your hand moving the whole time, and use the smallest amount needed. [24] X Research source [25] X Research source [26] X Research source For a textured or piece-y finish, rub a penny-sized amount of pomade between your palms. Use your fingers to apply it from the mid-shaft to the ends. [27] X Research source Use thicker, water-soluble gels (or those with guar gum) that don’t feel sticky to help tame and control medium-to-big curls. Use denser creams for tight curls. [28] X Research source [29] X Research source You can also finish your hair with an anti-frizz or smoothing serum or a natural treatment oil like argan, coconut, avocado, sweet almond or grape seed. Use only a dab and rub it between your palms before either a) applying it to areas that are frizzy or need more control or b) to the ends using a twisting motion. Avoid products with silicones unless they are water-soluble or more gentle on the hair. More gentle silicones are amodimethicone, cyclomethicone/cyclopentasiloxane and trimethyl-silylamodi-methicone. Silicones that are more water-soluble include behenoxy dimethicone and stearoxy dimethicone. [30] X Research source
If you plan to dry your curly hair frequently, get a ceramic, ceramic ionic or ceramic tourmaline blow dryer. All reduce damage by either emitting infrared heat or using negative ions to break down water molecules. [33] X Research source
Choose a diffuser that’s concave in the center, or not flat, so curls can rest inside it and take shape naturally. [34] X Research source Or buy one that has a cup-like shape in which curls can nestle. Also look for a diffuser that’s about 2½-3” wide for better heat distribution and that has at least 1-2” long “fingers” to help separate curls. They need to be long enough to reach roots for lift and volume. [35] X Research source While many diffusers claim to fit all hair dryers, online reviewers say this isn’t always the case. You may have to go by trial-and-error. You also might buy a blow dryer that comes with a diffuser, buy a diffuser that comes with a ring or strap to help secure it to your blow dryer, or go to your blow dryer company’s product website and see if it recommends particular diffusers for your dryer model.
Afterward, use your hands to gently squeeze excess water from your hair. Next squeeze your hair with a t-shirt, soft towel or super-absorbent, micro-fiber cloth to soak up more water before patting downward to help cuticles lay flat.
You can apply the product to each section of hair as you detangle. Or you can apply it afterward.
After you comb it through your hair, create your part, hold the ends of your hair with your hands, shake them side-to-side, and then let go so your curls bounce back up. [38] X Research source
One way to dry with a diffuser is to hold the blow dryer at a 90˚ angle from your head and place the diffuser at the roots of one section of hair. Start at the nape of your neck and gently hold the ends away from the blow dryer. Turn on the blow dryer and use the fingers of the diffuser to lift hair at the roots. Move in a circular direction at the same time. [40] X Research source Another way, one that will add more volume, is to flip your head upside down and place the diffuser at the roots of your hair. Use the diffuser’s fingers to lift the roots in a circular direction. Then use the diffuser to scrunch up the mid-shaft to hold and dry. With this method, you want the roots and mid-shaft to dry completely to lock in volume. [41] X Research source Another option is to tilt your head to one side and use your hand to cup up one section of hair from the mid-shaft to the root. Place the diffuser at the roots and hold the dryer at a 90˚ angle. Then turn on the blow dryer and dry for a couple of minutes before turning it off to move to another section. Tilt your head the opposite direction to do the other side, then start at your crown and move down. At the end, go back through using the dryer’s cool shot button to set it. Finally, if your hair is wavy and you’re trying to add more curl, place your ends in the cup of the diffuser one section at a time. Push it to your scalp and hold until dry. [42] X Research source Some also find it beneficial to let their hair air dry for 20-30 minutes, or until it’s about 50% dry, to allow its natural curl pattern to better form. If you’re trying to enhance curl, however, you should begin drying immediately.
If your hair is particularly curly, you can also twist or braid your hair before wrapping it. [45] X Research source
Lay a large t-shirt on a flat surface with the short sleeves closest to you. Bend over and place your head in the center so your hair is lying above it on the t-shirt, and fold the end of the t-shirt over your hair and top of your head. Grab the sleeves and twist inward toward your ears. Tie it (or secure with a clip) loosely at the base of your neck. Leave it on for about 15-30 minutes and allow your hair to air dry the rest of the way.
Both are hands-free, too, which is an advantage.
Wrap a silk scarf around your hair if you’re going to sleep. [48] X Research source [49] X Research source Otherwise, let it air dry, or use a bonnet dryer or a hooded dryer.
Allow your hair to dry naturally, or use a bonnet dryer or hooded dryer on a low heat before switching to cool to set your curls. You can also combine air-drying with either dryer by letting your hair air dry for awhile before using one of the dryers. Or you can dry it partially with one of the dryers and then let it air dry the rest of the way. Test to see if it’s dry by unrolling one roller at the back of your head after about 45 minutes, longer if your hair is very thick or coarse. [50] X Research source [51] X Research source
Use roughly a nickel- to a quarter-sized amount of anti-frizz serums, creams and oils. If you go overboard, sprinkle some baby powder or dry shampoo on your hair and use your blow dryer to blast the area with cool air. If you use mousse or foam, spray out a cloud the size of a golf ball. Pat your hands together and finger comb it through your hair, starting at your roots. [54] X Research source
Make sure the blow dryer is pointed in a downward direction to smooth hair cuticles. Always start at your roots and move to the ends. [55] X Research source [56] X Research source
Use lower heat and speed settings when using a blow dryer for a more gentle dry that won’t stretch or blow out curls. [57] X Research source
