You can also cut a small piece of the wire and take it with you to a store that sells audio supplies so they can tell you. Speaker wire ranges from 10AWG (which is very thick) to 20AWG (which is very thin). 18 gauge (AWG) is the most popular size, and it’s usually used for distances of up to 25 ft (7. 6 m). 16 gauge is also common, especially for distances up to 50 ft (15 m). [3] X Research source You can splice 2 differently-sized wires together, as long as they’re close in gauge (like 18AWG and 16AWG). If the extension of the wire is beyond 100 feet, consider replacing the wire with a thicker size.
Many wire strippers also act as wire cutters, so you may not need two separate tools for this. Consider off-setting the cuts on the negative and positive wire instead of cutting them straight across. For instance, you might make the positive end of the existing wire 2 in (5. 1 cm) longer than the negative. Then, on the extension wire, you’d cut the positive side 2 in (5. 1 cm) shorter than the negative. This off-set will make the finished wire less bulky, and there’s no chance the positive and negatives will touch. [6] X Research source
Do this for both the positive and negative sides on the extension wire. If the bare wires are already exposed on your existing speaker cord, you may not need to strip them again. If the wires look frayed, though, it’s a good idea to cut them shorter and strip them so you have a fresh piece of wire to work with. Cut the wire as close to the frayed pieces as possible.
If there’s any identifying feature on one side of the wire—like if one side is black and the other is colored, or if one side is striped, printed, stamped, or molded—that’s the positive side. Also, if one side of the wire is silver and the other is gold, the gold side is positive. [10] X Research source
Do not leave any bare wire showing at all. If the positive and negative sides of the wire touch, your speaker could short out and be permanently damaged. You’ll also risk being shocked if you touch the bare wire while the speaker is on. [13] X Research source Give each set of wires a light tug to make sure they’re secure after you tape them. [14] X Research source
Although this will help stabilize the wire, the connection could still loosen over time, especially if you move the wire or put a lot of pressure on it. Eventually, that could cause a short that could damage your stereo equipment. [15] X Research source
Double-check that there isn’t any bare wire showing on either side. If there is, pull that end of the wire out of the connector and cut the bare wire a little shorter. Make sure you choose the right crimp connector for your type of wire. They’re usually color-coded—yellow for 10-12 AWG, blue for 14-16 AWG, and red for 18-22 AWG. You might see crimp connectors called butt connectors or butt splices—these terms all refer to the same thing!
Crimping the connector will lock it onto the wire, creating a permanent splice. Don’t use pliers or any other tool to crimp the wire—it won’t hold the connector securely in place. [19] X Research source
After you check that the wires are secure, you can wrap the connectors in electrical tape for extra stability. Don’t use the tape to stabilize poorly-secured connectors, though.
Keep twisting until the wires are connected firmly together. Tuck the ends of the wire in neatly—if they’re sticking up, they could pierce through the electrical tape you use at the end.
If you don’t have a helping hands device, you can improvise by clamping the wire between two alligator clips, then standing the clips on end. This won’t be super-secure, though, so try not to bump the clips or the wire while you’re working. You could also work on a heat-safe surface, like a metal or concrete workbench.
If you have enough room to maneuver beneath the wire, you could just hold the soldering iron and solder under the wire and melt it that way, rather than flipping the wire over. Once you’ve soldered the wire, let it cool for 5-10 minutes before you handle it. Repeat the whole process to connect the negative sides of the speaker wire.
You can also use heat shrink tubing to insulate the wires. Put the tubing on the wire before you splice the ends together, but keep it away from the heat of the soldering iron. Once the solder is cool, slide the tubing over the splice and use a heat gun or hair dryer to shrink it around the bare wire. [27] X Research source
