If you’re drilling new holes, refer to the new dishwasher’s manual to pinpoint the location and diameter of the holes. Use a power drill with a hole saw bit to cut the holes. If the electrical wiring for the dishwasher doesn’t run into the sink cabinet, you’ll only need to drill 2 holes.
Unless you are fully certain of your abilities, hire a professional electrician to run any new wiring needed for your dishwasher install. For extra certainty that particular electrical wires aren’t “hot” (electrified), buy a current tester at a home center. Some models require you to touch each wire to test them, while others only require you to hold the tester close to the wiring.
For a dishwasher with front hookups, you’ll have to slide the appliance into place before finalizing the connections. For a dishwasher with rear hookups, you need to finalize the connections before sliding the appliance into place.
Some dishwasher models can be connected to the cold water supply line instead, but the hot water line is usually the preferred option. Consult the product manual for clarification.
If there isn’t already a dual outlet valve in place, you’ll have to install one. Disconnect the supply line to the faucet, then attach the dual outlet valve to both the hot water line and the faucet supply line. Use thread seal tape, hand-tighten each connection, and give a quarter-to-half turn with your wrench. Don’t connect the other end of the water supply line to the dishwasher yet.
To install a dishwasher tailpiece, first loosen and disconnect the P-trap section of the drain pipe—you’ll be able to do this with just your hands if the pipe is made of PVC. Buy a replacement P-trap section that includes a dishwasher tailpiece, and connect it in place—once again, hand-tightening is sufficient for PVC.
Don’t connect the other end of the drain line to the dishwasher yet.
Alternatively, your local building code may require the use of an air gap to prevent backups. This is a more complicated procedure that may be best left to a professional plumber.
For a dishwasher with rear hookups, don’t secure the utility lines to the floor. Instead, make sure each is long enough that you can tie them into the back of the dishwasher before you push it into its final position in the cabinet bay.
Turn the feet counterclockwise to increase the height and clockwise to reduce it. In the U. S. , bottom kitchen cabinets are generally standardized at 34. 5 in (88 cm) high so that the work surface of the countertop will be roughly 36 in (91 cm) off the floor.
Make sure to slide the dishwasher over the utility lines that are taped to the floor. If you’ve centered them from back to front in the cabinet bay, they shouldn’t be in the way of the feet of the appliance. Remember that you need to finish the utility hookups before installing the dishwasher if you have a rear hookup model.
The right angle elbow prevents the water supply line from protruding outward from the front of the dishwasher. You might get one with your dishwasher, or need to buy one from a home supply store—check where other dishwasher plumbing supplies are sold. The installation is the same with a rear hookup dishwasher, other than the location.
Once again, this process (other than the location) is the same with a front hookup and rear hookup dishwasher.
Attach the black (hot) wire to the black wire in the box by twisting them together with an electrical wire nut. Secure the white (neutral) wire to the white wire in the box with another wire nut. Wrap the ground wire (usually copper or green) securely around the ground screw in the electrical box, then tighten the screw over the wrapped wire. Tuck the secure connections into the dishwasher electric box and close it. It may have screws to keep it securely closed.
If you have stone or solid surface countertops, check the dishwasher manufacturer’s instructions for the proper way to secure the unit in place. Now you’re ready to turn the water and power on, check for leaks, and—if you’re leak free—run your built-in dishwasher!
