Most handgun manufacturers design components (even the polymer) to be safely used with any solvent, but be sure there aren’t types of solvents the manufacturer warns against. A liberal amount of solvent is not necessary.
The most common area with carbon deposits is in the chamber. Buildup occurs in the corners of the pieces of metal.
Run the full length of the barrel at least five times (more if you have shot a lot since the last cleaning). Be sure not to reverse direction with the brush in the barrel. Instead, push it all the way through, then all the way back (letting the bristles change direction outside of the barrel).
If rust is present in small amounts, you may be able to remove it with a little bit of gun cleaner or gun oil and a good abrasive brush, using these items to scrub it clean. However, if its eating at the metal, the gun will likely need a clean followed by a refinish.
A tip, When oiling a part, put on a layer covering the entire part just thick enough to leave a distinct fingerprint after you touch it. Oil all the components requiring lubrication. Often the manual for the gun will have specific areas needing oil, but a quick look at where the gun is wearing will give you a good indication of where to apply oil. Be sure to oil the areas around rotating parts, such as the base of a hammer or trigger assembly. Try to keep oil away from the openings into the firing pin housing (oil is a collector of dirt and powder buildup, and buildup around your firing pin can prevent it from firing).
Grease is better on sliding parts since these types of parts tend to shed oil quickly. As the parts slide back and forth the oil is pushed out of the way leaving the metal exposed. Grease was designed to stay in place and good ones like Lubriplate SFL-0 keep sliding parts covered. The staying power of grease keeps the parts protected even after continuous use. You want to make sure your grease has a base that is safe for the metals you are using them on. Grease bases like aluminum and lithium are best(chlorinated compounds are not acceptable). Make sure the grease is thin enough so it won’t inhibit the action of the weapon (usually NLGI #0 is best). Also look for good cold working characteristics, resistance to acids/alkalis and water (especially water), and preferably non-staining (black grease stains are not attractive on your shirt and pants). Don’t forget to grease the guide rails and the grooves in which they ride on the frame and slide. Use a good anti-wear, anti-corrosion oil for general application and a light aluminum based grease on the sliding parts of your firearm and you will keep it running smoothly for generations.
A quick test for proper functionality is to rack the slide; make sure it goes completely back into battery (all the way forward). If it does not, the recoil spring may not be set properly. Ensure it is unloaded (see above), and pull the trigger, you should hear a click. Rack the slide again, or if the gun is a double-action, cock the hammer (or striker) again.
