Draw the semicircle with a compass or a pencil attached to a piece of string. A plate or lid of the right size can also be used. Align the straight edge of the semicircle with the paper edge to reduce the amount of cutting or drawing. Paper, cardstock, felt, cardboard, foam, or even thin plastic sheeting can also be used.
There is no need to add a seam allowance or tabs as the straight edges are overlapped to create the cone.
The greater the overlap, the narrower the cone will be. With less overlap, the cone will be wider.
A glue stick will work for this, but liquid glue will hold better. Secure the seam temporarily with masking tape until the glue dries, then peel it off.
Instead of parchment paper, you can use wax paper. This method can be used to create craft cones out of printer paper or construction paper.
Keep 1 of the triangles for the piping cone and set the other triangle aside for a different project.
When the short edge is closer to the bottom, the wider the cone will be. When the short edge is further from the bottom, the narrower the cone will be.
Adjust tip of the cone to be a point. For use as a piping cone, trim the tip off later.
Skip this step if the cone is not used for piping.
A piping cone does not need to taped, glued, or stapled. Instead, fold the opening down a few times to the level of the filling to close off the cone. Test your piping cone. If the icing or chocolate does not come out of the tip, trim it with scissors.
For example, for a 6 in (15 cm) tall cone, the circle’s radius will be 6 inches (15 cm).
For example, for a 6 in (15 cm) tall cone, use a 12 in (30 cm) plate to draw it. The circle can be drawn on any stiff material, such as paper, cardstock, craft foam, felt, plastic sheeting, or thin metal sheeting.
Be careful when cutting metal; it will be sharp.
If the material does not hold creases well, draw an X at the middle of the circle, then make a small mark in the middle of that X.
If you have a mathematical mind, determine the circumference of the cone’s base. This is the remaining circumference of the circle after the wedge is cut out. If using the cone’s circumference for reference, add about 1⁄2 to 1 inch (1. 3 to 2. 5 cm) to the total measurement for an overlap that can be glued.
The greater the overlap, the narrower the cone will be, and vice versa. Make sure any pen or pencil marks made are on the inside of the cone.
If making a felt, foam, plastic, or metal cone, use hot glue instead. Fabric glue may work for foam cones as well. If you know how to weld, weld a metal cone shut instead.
For example, use a patterned cotton for 1 piece, and solid-colored cotton for the other. For a narrower cone, cut two 1/4 circle shapes instead. If you plan on laundering the cone, wash, dry, and iron the fabric first.
Foam stabilizer looks like craft felt, except that it is stiffer. It can be labeled as “fusible foam. ” If you can not find foam stabilizer, cut 2 pieces of fusible interfacing instead.
If using fusible interfacing, iron each piece to the back (wrong side) of each 1/3 circle instead. Both fusible foam and fusible interfacing have a rough side and a smooth side. The rough side is the side is the glue that goes against the fabric. Read the instructions that came with the foam or interfacing. Each brand will have slightly different requirements.
If using fusible interfacing, iron each piece to the back (wrong side) of each 1/3 circle instead. Both fusible foam and fusible interfacing have a rough side and a smooth side. The rough side is the side is the glue that goes against the fabric. Read the instructions that came with the foam or interfacing. Each brand will have slightly different requirements.
Be careful not to sew across the stabilizer or interfacing. If you do, carefully trim or tear away the excess sticking outside the stitching. Use pins to hold the fabric in place for sewing, but be sure to take them out as you sew.
Do not crease or iron the fabric. The straight edges need to be aligned.
Backstitch at the start and end of sewing. This is simply where you reverse the sewing machine for a few stitches. Starting the sewing at the center seam will ensure that everything is aligned.
Backstitch on either side of the gap so that the seam does not split when the fabric is turned right-side-out. If the cone is 6 inches (15 cm) or smaller, make the gap 2 to 3 inches (5. 1 to 7. 6 cm) instead.
Don’t worry about making the points perfect just yet.
Make sure the raw edges of the hem are folded into the gap first. You want the seam to look as straight and neat as possible. If sewing the gap shut on the sewing machine, start at the seam where the outer fabric is, and finish sewing at the bottom point of the lining.
Keep rotating and pressing the cone until the entire hem is ironed.
